This post contains the original and the updated BOMM recipe. The original recipe is a dry mead. If you prefer a sweeter mead, see the Sweet Sack BOMM in the mead section of this site.
To my knowledge, this is the first method created to make a fast, standard strength mead. It required the use of this specific yeast (Wyeast 1388) and nutrient protocol to work. Since that time, science caught up. Most meads can be made quickly now with the Fermaid O nutrient. If you wish to use a dry yeast, look up the TOSNA nutrient addition. If you are using a liquid yeast from Wyeast, White Labs, Omega, or a personal Yeast Bank use my nutrient protocol found here for best results: https://denardbrewing.com/blog/post/Liquid-yeast-SNA/
BOMM Recipe - 1 gallon
1. Start with a full 1 gallon Ozarka spring water.
2. Remove 1/2 cup water to compensate for smack pack volume.
3. Draw line on jugs at this water level.
4. Remove an additional 3.2 cups of water from jug (757 ml).
5. Add Orange Blossom honey (or your favorite varietal honey) back to line.
-About 2.5 lbs. SG 1.099ish.
6a. OLD STAGGERED NUTRIENT PROTOCOL - As history shows, this protocol works, but the new protocol (6b.) enhances the flavor of the mead in a noticeable way and avoids off flavors from DAP. DO NOT USE BOTH! Pick 6a. OR 6b.
Add 1/4 tsp DAP and 1/2 tsp of Fermaid K.
-Add these again at 1.066 & 1.033 gravity.
-These are nutrients you can get at homebrew shops or Amazon. Fermaid K contains vitamins, minerals, and trace nutrients. Honey is very deficient in nutrients so you need both to prevent fusel production. Diammonium phosphate (DAP) is a free nitrogen source. DAP can add off flavors if added after 1.033. Omit if you missed your gravity!
6b. NEW STAGGERED NUTRIENT PROTOCOL (DLNA)
Add 0.4 tsp of Fermaid K upfront only.
Add 0.4 tsp of Fermaid O upfront, at 1.076, and at 1.043 gravity.
-These are nutrients you can get at homebrew shops or Amazon. Fermaid K contains vitamins, minerals, and trace nutrients. Fermaid O is an organic source of nitrogen. Honey is very deficient in nutrients so you need both to prevent fusel production.
7. Add 1/4 tsp K2CO3. One time addition.
-Potassium carbonate (K2CO3) is preferred due to high K+ levels, but potassium bicarbonate (KHCO3) will work fine. This is for pH buffering and to provide K+ for the yeast.
8. Shake with the top on until honey is fully dissolved. It will require some effort! You're earning your mead!
9. Add activated Wyeast 1388 yeast smacked for 1-2 hours. Do not exceed 2 hours. Make sure the yeast and the must are the same temperature.
-No water in airlock for 7 days or the gravity falls below 1.033. Whichever comes first, add water or vodka to airlock. Ferments dry in 7-14 days.
NOTE: Wyeast 1388 temperature range is best in the 68-74 F range. Some people have reported issues with going above 74ºF, other people say it's fine. I try to keep my fermentations at 68ºF for the initial few days, then bump it up to 72 F for the last 20 points.
Post Fermentation (Optional!)
-Add 1 vanilla bean, 3 cubes American Medium toast and 2 cubes French Medium toast oak for 2-4 weeks to taste.
-You can also step feed small additions of honey until the yeast give up to sweeten. Just be sure your gravity is stable over several weeks to avoid bottle bombs! SG of up to 1.12 will still ferment dry, but the SNAs need to go in at 1.08 & 1.04 in this case.
-I've also had good luck racking on 3-5 pounds of frozen berries to make a melomel, but fruit in very prone to oxidation. Use good practices!
-This recipe can be adapted to cysers, pyments, braggots, metheglins or anything else. It's your mead. Experiment!